Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Swahili, Tanzania, and khat-chewing bus drivers

This looks familiar...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pelangio957/

We finally stepped off the bus at 8:30 that night in a dark parking lot, crowded with taxi drivers, hawkers, and others whose occupations I didn't want to know. When we retrieved our bags from the belly of the bus, we had completed a 14 hour journey from Arusha almost due south to Iringa town. Parts of the trip were incredibly beautiful – we passed through groves of baobab trees, as if driving through a Dr. Seuss book – and we watched the sun rise (and set!) over a beautiful East African landscape. BUT.

Our seats were booked at the front of the bus – travel tip #1 for those considering a bus ride in Africa – but it was too far up front. First, we could see the driver (more on him in a moment) and secondly, we were between windows, so didn't have one to ourselves. I've discovered that our fellow East Africans do not enjoy the wind blowing through their hair. Or on their skin. Or at all. Which meant that when it got hot (as it is wont to do on an overcrowded bus in the middle of the day) there was no air circulating on that bus. Imagine your last airplane trip: imagine it with less leg room and less air. 
Yep, that was our bus.

Khat or Miraa
Khat is a shrub grown in only certain parts of the north and eastern part of our continent. People who use khat chew the leaves – they must be fresh – and chew/suck on the skinny stems. Khat (miraa in Kiswahili) is not illegal. It’s an accepted stimulant, which is a bit of a mystery to me; however, many say that it doesn’t have any more stimulant effects than coffee. Others dispute that, and argue that it is quite addictive (um, like coffee?) and produces hallucinatory effects for those who use it frequently.
Rand and I noticed that our driver did several things throughout the trip. He drank from a plastic soda bottle containing a light yellowish (really unattractive) liquid. He chewed gum constantly, and he kept a little bag in his lap, from which he would pull one or two small twigs out and suck on them – all the while drinking the soda (?) and chewing the gum. He also drove as to escape a nightmare. He jiggled his legs, he swung his arms (yes, while holding the steering wheel), he looked around wildly, and he did not slow down over speed bumps.

Did I mention that this bus ride was 14 hours? We stopped twice. Once for a minute to refuel (not to find a toilet) and once (once!) for a bathroom break.
Fortunately, we arrived safely. We found a taxi to our “campsite,” which is really a lovely set of cabins, tent-sites, and tented bandas tucked into a forested parcel of land along the Little Ruaha River. We were greeted by Eliud who showed us our little stone home. We took a walk in the cold, starry, silent night, and then finally fell into a delicious sleep.

Mwalimu na mimi (Teacher Joyce and me)
The next morning after breakfast and playful greetings by Bruiser and Polly (the camp dogs) we met Mwalimu (teacher) Joyce who told us that our driver most definitely was chewing khat as he drove us through that lovely country.
We spent the next two weeks learning Swahili…filling our heads with noun classes, verb forms, infixes (we don’t have those in English, do we?), suffixes, and prefixes. Swahili is a beautiful language – full of lyrical sounds and an amazing mix of primarily Arab and Bantu vocabulary and structure. Forget about all the other languages you’ve learned or been exposed to: it does you no good. Joyce was patient, funny, and very opinionated. We learned a lot. We ate a lot, but we were also able to run almost everyday – finding trails, waterfalls, mini canyons, and lots of friendly and willing Tanzanians for us to practice talking to.

One of the days we wandered into Iringa town to hang out in the market, practice our Swahili, and book our bus tickets back to Arusha. (Only after we did a lot of research into buying plane tickets!) Our teacher thought we were crazy when we told her we purchased 3 seats for the two of us: only wazungu (foreigners) have enough money to buy a ticket for a non-existent traveler (thanks for the use of your name, Reid).

We boarded the bus for the trip back to Arusha in hopes that it would be much better. I’ve written enough, so I won’t go into detail about the return. Besides, minus the khat-chewing maniacal driver, it was still a 14-hour bus ride through beautiful Tanzania. But this time we did see elephants.
The market in Iringa town
The Little Ruaha River -- near one of the trails we were able to run. 






Monday, September 8, 2014

Ol Pejeta!


We had a great summer (winter for us here below the Equator) with lots of great adventure and travels. (We'll do another post about mine and Rand's 15 hour bus trip to the south of Tanzania for language study with our khat-chewing, maniacal bus driver.) 

The kids were separated from us for way too long -- but they came home in late July with Rand’s parents and we had a grand time going on a safari to Ol Pejeta Conservancy. It’s a model of private wildlife conservation and indigenous herd management. Here are just a few of the amazing animals we saw...We got a new camera in June and it was so fun experimenting. We are grateful to be in such a beautiful country. Let us know when you're ready for your safari...

Elephants at a watering hole just near our camp -- check out week-old baby trying to figure out how to use her trunk
Cape Buffalo baby and mom

We always think of a sweet little girl when we see zebras, especially young ones
Lilac breasted roller


Grey crowned crane - you can see that this is also just near our camp
I. love. warthogs.



This little guy is showing us his ears -- proving how threatening he can be 
What a place for us to celebrate Nana's birthday...

Our first tented camp
Bushbucks -- so fuzzy
And then there were these guys...

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Planning, budgets, programs...some of the work we (and MCC) do in Kenya

As we have been quiet on our blog these last couple of months, I thought I’d give you some idea of what we’ve been up to. We just emerged from a heavy season of planning and preparation for the new fiscal year that began in April. During December, January, and February, Rand and I have been involved in budget development and proposal writing, reviewing, editing and finalizing for MCC’s work in Kenya. We have done a lot of this on our own, and much of it with input from program specialists with MCC in Canada and the US. Most of the proposals that we support have a three year duration, so developing them is not a small task for our partners who implement them.

MCC’s method of working in most countries and areas is by partnering with established organizations, or partners. In other words, typically MCC would not come into a community and say, “You need a well, and we will fund it. “ Rather MCC’s partners are organizations who are already at work in MCC’s strategic and geographic areas of interest and share MCC values.

In Kenya our areas of focus are food security/agriculture/water, health (including HIV/AIDS prevention), education, disaster relief, and peace-building.  The majority of our money is spent on water/ag/food security.  All of our partners use methods and techniques that are unique to their environments, populations, and particular needs; no two programs look alike.
A Self Help Group building a sand dam in the Ukambani region of Kenya.
In the food security/ag/water sector, our partners build sand dams, implement various methods of water harvesting, tree planting, and conservation agriculture. I realize as I write this how new these terms are to me. Even food security, a term I’ve been familiar with and involved in for years, takes on greater meaning in sub-Saharan Africa. 

A sand dam with water flowing over it. In the dry season
the water stored in this dam will be crucial for crops,
livestock, and people in the area. 
Our health work primarily consists of funding HIV/AIDS prevention programs through the Kenya Mennonite Church, but also with a Presbyterian organization in Ewuaso, a rural Maasai community. AIDS is a concern globally, of course, and the task of educating and empowering youth and young adults to make healthy choices is important in slowing transmission. Additionally, certain cultural practices in some communities make the task even more urgent and difficult. We work with strong community leaders who are motivated to educate folks about the risks of unwise health decisions and the role of traditional cultural practices in spread of HIV. This is not easy work, nor is community behavior change easy. At times, this work takes on an added dimension to me as I see some of these men who are leaders in their communities and who have become meaningful spokespeople in explaining the dangers of gender-based violence and why the church should be leading the discussions in these issues.


Bottles laid out to sterilize in the sun at Menno Kids Academy. Each student and
teacher has his or her own bottle that is laid out each day. 
WASH (or Water, Sanitation, and Hygiene) is an important focus area; for the majority of Kenyans, clean water is nothing to take for granted. Several of our partner schools implement programs in their schools and surrounding communities.


We also support several schools through MCC’s Global Family Fund. We partner with schools and organizations in our country that face incredible challenges – they strive to provide quality education to vulnerable kids and provide them a loving, stable environment. Visiting these schools and seeing the tireless work of the teachers is amazing. We have also been fortunate to have a young, bright service worker (i.e., MCC volunteer) work with these schools. 
The kids at Mukuru Menno Academy holding up their water
bottles after sitting in the sun (the SODIS method is part of our WASH
programs at the schools. Clean water is not to be taken for granted here.

I realize that climate change is a controversial term in the US, fraught with highly politicized factions. That is not the case here: it is a hard reality that millions of people in this region of Africa deal with on a daily basis. It has changed the rains, the water availability, the crops, livestock breeding patterns – almost everything. The increasing number of droughts has required that we work with our partners to provide relief and food aid. There are various ways we do this, and we know that at some point in our term, we will face another serious season of food shortages. We fortunately have seen good rains over the last month – albeit strange, as they started in February, rather than March. We hope that crops will grow and produce well this season.

Two participants engaged in the "river of life" exercise during the Justice
that Heals Learning Community, led by MCC partner DiPaD.
Kenya has a long history of inter-tribal violence and border disputes, often escalating around elections. Although the past election, a year ago, passed without overt violence, there are still tensions that many Kenyans feel. MCC supports organizations that work in this area. We are also excited about a new program that starts in April in Eastleigh, the neighbourhood in Nairobi where most of the city’s Somali immigrants and refugees live.

The tasks of developing a budget (and you will be relieved to know that Rand does most of that!) and revising and editing plans can feel a bit cold and disconnected from the workers in the communities. At the same time, it gives us the opportunity to see the hard work that our partners put into providing services for the people they serve. We really are amazed at what can happen in these communities with limited resources and less than ideal circumstances. For those of you who give to MCC, thank you, and please know that we really do work hard to ensure the money is spent wisely and with kindness and compassion. https://donate.mcc.org/

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Mom and Dad came to Africa...

What a visit. Before Mom and Dad left, I quizzed them, the kids, and Rand on what their favourite memories were so that I could write a good blog post. It was great hearing all of their memories and reliving what a great time we had. They have been gone for not even a week -- we are slowly getting back into the routine of school and work, but we still miss them. I haven't written anything yet... like all of you, we get bogged down in the details of life and school and work (budget planning time for MCC!). My parents sent out an email to a bunch of their friends, and I decided that I should just use their email summary -- see below. I'll just add one story that sums up their attitude for the whole time they were here:

We were on the way to an isolated village where two of our service workers live, Najile, Kajiado County West. It's not far (distance-wise) but a world away from Nairobi, through the bush of the Rift Valley. We had been bumping along, all crammed in our truck for about two hours when Sam asks, "How much longer do we have?" Before I could provide a soothing parental answer, my dad calls out, "Who cares? This is GREAT!"

Mom and Dad's note to friends:
"We are safely home (since January 18th) from our adventure in Kenya; thank you for all your prayers while we were there!  I thought we'd just finish our account of activities there and attach a few pictures.
 
We toured several parks where we saw lions, hippos, rhinos, warthogs, giraffes, monkeys, lots of pretty birds, elands, gazelles and African buffaloes.. up pretty close.  I've not sent those pictures because you know what they look like.  Zebras are seen along the roadside like cows in the US - no big deal about them!
 
Nairobi is a very modern city, but I attached a picture of a more "slum" area.  Other pictures (in no particular order) are of the Rosslyn  Academy where the kids go to school, a Maasai woman with Selena and Reid (she's one of 3 wives).  There is one of us being presented jewellery by the Maasai family we dined with, all of us at our "banda" (camping cabin) and another of us at Hell's Gate Cave, another of us at Karen (the "Out of Africa" estate near Nairobi).
 
We visited a Giraffe Park (hence the two pictures...note my "kissing" the Giraffe)!  We went to a baby elephant orphanage and adopted "Suswa" for grandson Pierce.  Their keepers are with them 24 hours - sleep with them, as well.
 
We visited a tea plantation, several mission sites where Rand and Selena have projects...orphanages, schools, community projects, etc.  Highlight for us was meeting so many interesting people from all over who are in Kenya on some sort of mission. 
 
Kenyans are warm, very religious people, (who drive like maniacs).  There are armed guards everywhere - everything is behind gates (beautiful ones, too).  Sam & Reid are adapting well and Rand and Selena love their job.  They have a really nice apartment in the city with most conveniences.  We had a wonderful time with them (didn't seem to overstay!) and are so thankful for the privilege we had of going."
 

 

 
 

 

 

 

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Aunt Kay

Friday is my Aunt Kay’s birthday. She would have been 73. Kay died on October 9th from metastatic breast cancer, just a few weeks after we moved to Nairobi. We missed the memorial service ~ that was really hard. This is the first time I have grieved at a distance from my family and friends, but I am so grateful to my dad, my  mom, and my sister, along with Kay's incredible friends, who were with Kay in those final weeks. Below are some rambling thoughts on Kay ~ some came from the obituary that friends and family wrote. Thanks for reading and honouring my aunt’s memory with me.

‘It reflects on your other commitments as well. Will you be able to stay married? What kind of a friend are you?’ My aunt Kay said this to me when I was 20 and contemplating taking a year off from college. That summer I was working in DC for my congressman (does anyone else in South Carolina miss John Spratt?) and it seemed like I had some growing up to do. So I told Kay that: maybe I should take a year off and grow up some. Her reply was something like, ‘Learning how to stick to something when it’s really hard is part of growing up.’

I was reared by wonderful parents who were active church members, with morals and values grounded in Biblical stories and their faith. Our home was a small town in South Carolina where a huge Air Force base was an influential part of our community. Kay, my dad’s older sister, was quite different from almost all of the other women I knew as a child. Although she only lived 45 miles away in Columbia, at times her world seemed radically different than mine.

Kay was a feminist and a committed and vocal member of the Democratic Party and League of Women Voters. She was a sophisticated conversationalist, particularly about South Carolina politics. No matter how frustrated she could get with our state, she remained fiercely loyal to South Carolina, and to its University, where she worked for so many years. She wasn’t always easy to deal with. She was opinionated, well read, and could be sarcastic and unkind toward others’ opinions that differed substantially from hers.  Kay never married, sometimes she lived alone; for a while she had a long-time roommate (as an adult! how cool!), she always had a cat, great art hung on her walls, and had lived and travelled all over the world. She was deeply committed to the local art scene in Columbia. Many of these characteristics made her the kind of woman who was not only unusual in small towns of the Deep South in the 1970’s and 80’s; to me she was almost exotic.

Kay valued intellectual curiosity and perseverance ~ hence her strong reservations about my wanting to quit college for a year. The value she placed on those two things could often make it difficult for us to get along. I always loved to read (one of the characteristics we had in common), but I wasn’t classically smart ~ I didn’t have good grades, and I had a hard time dedicating the kind of time good grades required. However, we both shared a love of theatre, and because of her I was able to see some of South Carolina’s best live theatre. She loved that I was active in the Sumter Little Theatre, and it was important to me that we shared that passion.

Kay was a serious lover of cats, and spent much of her energy caring for a long line of quirky and insistent animals. She loved and appreciated classical music, theatre, opera; she shared this love with all of us.  She generously and consistently supported the arts in Columbia and Charleston. Kay’s sense of style was to be envied, and it was demonstrated in her clothes, the art on her walls, and in her home. Kay was a mean card player, and spent much of her time around a Bridge table with a loyal group of players. She made sure each of us had a sixpence on our wedding day. Kay was a willing playmate with little ones; she could be silly and tease playfully and make up funny nicknames. Kay hated to be woken up early, especially on Christmas mornings by over-eager nieces.

Kay was private about dealing with her cancer. I’m pretty sure she told my sister and parents a bit more, but with me it was pretty much on a need-to-know-basis. We talked about it over the years, but I think she kept a lot of the pain to herself. She had a dedicated circle of friends, made up of old and new, male and female, conservatives and liberal thinkers….really quite amazing to me. They supported her during her various bouts with cancer, and then supported my dad and Mandy when they were in Columbia during her final weeks.


We miss Kay and I know with Christmas approaching (a holiday we usually spent with her), it will be more acute. My kids and I will miss her silly and unique presents, the English crackers, delicious German wine, good bread, and pimiento cheese from The Gourmet Shop in Columbia.

For many people Christmas and the holidays can be really hard. I love the Quaker way of saying they remember one another in prayer: "I will hold you in the Light." I hope each of us has someone who holds us in the Light this season ~ it is a bitter and sweet time for many.   

Kay wearing one of the crowns from the English crackers that she brought us every Christmas. 


Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Rand's Visit to Dadaab Refugee Complex

Rand visited the Dadaab refugee complex in early October; here's his reflection on that visit.

After departing from home early in the morning and boarding a UN flight from a small airport in Nairobi at 7:00 a.m, we arrived an hour later at the tar and chip UN airstrip, with rain sprinkling---unusual for the area.  Dadaab is a town in Kenya's NE province, about 50 km from Somalia. It's dusty, flat, windy, and the sun is hot. This province and neighboring areas have been inhabited largely by Somali speaking peoples for centuries. The border drawn by colonial powers in the 19th century seemed indiscriminately to place some of these peoples in Kenya and some in Somalia. In recent decades, Somalia has been a country ruled by violence and chaos, and Kenya has become a new home to many of those fleeing the violence and fear. 

Our destination after driving through the small market town of Dadaab was the UN compound containing smaller encampments and offices for each of the several dozen NGOs and other agencies working in the area. The 5 actual refugee camps surround the town at some distance----Hagadera (the oldest and largest), Dagahali, Ifor I, Ifor II, and Kambi'oos (the newest and smallest). The various agencies with refugee expertise contract with the UN and divide responsibilities for various services in the camps. These agencies include big names like the International Rescue Committee, Islamic Relief, Care International, and MCC's partner and our host Lutheran World Federation.

LWF has a strong commitment to child protection and features prominently its Child Protection Code of Conduct on placards and t-shirts and more importantly in training of all staff, contractors, and guests, even guests visiting for just a few hours. We were also briefed on security and learned that since the first camp's beginnings in 1992, and until recently, violence and other security concerns have been rare. Starting in 2011, coincidental with rising international pressure on Somalia and the entry of Kenya's military into the conflict there, kidnappings of foreigners and planting of IEDs near the roadways between camps occur occasionally.  The explosives typically have targeted security forces and police, though with frequent collateral damage. The Westgate terrorist attack in Nairobi in late September brought fresh concern, yet the rate of kidnapping and other violence has not risen.  During our visit precautions will be taken, including accompaniment by the LWF security chief and a police escort vehicle.

There's a warm family atmosphere on the LWF compound. The staff here are all unaccompanied, take most all of their meals together at the mess, and rely on each other for companionship.  They play volleyball in the afternoons and sometimes visit a little outdoor nightclub serving food and drinks. The accommodations are comfortable and utilitarian, mostly cinderblock buildings with individual rooms, as well as a few tents and other moveable trailer-type housing.  Over the years, staff have planted and maintained trees, converting their portion of the UN compound to an oasis that even the birds appreciate.  A small colony of cats roam, gathering near the mess hall when meat is served, and they appear healthy and happy.  It was nice to see the staff treating the cats politely, possibly lovingly, even when chasing them off from stalking the birds.

LWF is working to simultaneously improve the quality of education and expand the school enrollment in Hagadera and Kambi'oos.  The camps' schools are at or over capacity, yet an estimated 55% of eligible children are not enrolled. Many of the unenrolled are Somali Bantu, a marginalized group among Somalis. Other challenges include moving from temporary structures to more solid, safer, cleaner school structures, providing desks and school supplies, providing adequate service to the special needs population, and integrating over-age learners who are years behind the typically-aged student in schooling.

Monday afternoon we visited the small LWF education compound within Hagadera.  The Kenyan teachers for both camps' schools reside in this compound, while incentive staff (staff hired from the refugee population) continue to live at home in the camps. The buildings and mess resembled those at the LWF compound in Dadaab town. We were accompanied by Sheik, the LWF Dadaab education coordinator (see his photo among some preschool children in the schoolyard at Hagadera). We met with a group of teachers who had completed the MCC-sponsored teacher training. All were appreciative, and they voiced some suggestions for improvement, too.  Hellen, LWF's regional education coordinator, and Sheik reported that some of the trained teachers had already left for other jobs back in Somalia or with other agencies in the camps; teaching in the camps pays little compared to some other jobs. The teachers appreciated classroom evaluation by the teacher training professors, as well as the strong emphasis on professionalism---punctuality, dress, behavior modification methods. They still desire further subject matter specialization, especially the secondary teachers.

Tuesday we drove through Hagadera to Kambi'oos along sandy roads in a small caravan, yielding only to another caravan.....this one a caravan of donkeys carrying gathered wood piled high on carts. The two schools in Kambi'oos cover only the primary levels (through level 8). Housing for Kenyan school staff at this camp is lacking, and with the  difficult and time-consuming travel between camps, teachers are able to keep school open only for the mornings.  The Hilal and Furaha schools' classrooms and open spaces were neat and inviting.  Though on the way to being replaced, some structures of plastic sheeting on wooden frames were still in use.  Balala, the ever-smiling camp education officer, accompanied us. At Furaha, we met with the school management committee, a group of parents elected to serve as a school advisory committee.  Both at this meeting and the teacher meeting on Monday, we opened with touching and reverential prayer spoken in Somali.  We dropped by a couple of special needs classrooms at Hilal---great to see the patient, loving teachers, and the smiling confident kids. After the school visits, we visited the camp livelihoods center where adults were engaged in micro-enterprise education, learning to make soap, weaving sheets, dying shawls, learning to sew and make pasta.  Interesting and hopeful. 

On Tuesday afternoon we had time for catching up with a bit of office work.  That evening after supper, we sat with much of the leadership staff in the night club and discussed politics, refugee work, and personal interests.  It was a nice time. We all felt like we had spent more time together than just a day and a half!

The next morning, Wednesday, at Amani primary school, Hagadera, we visited a special needs class and a couple of the older level classrooms preparing for exams, yet our objective the today was to meet with the Girls Education Movement (GEM club). These young women, about a dozen, were in levels 6-8 and spoke eloquently and confidently about the need to educate through some of their cultural and societal burdens and the barriers that are presented to women and girls. Very inspiring to see the sparkle in their eyes and the way they looked directly at us to speak about their dreams and the importance of education.  We left this school for a short drive to the small LWF compound near the Hagadera market to meet the special needs advisory committee.  The committee has 60 members, with a 15 member executive committee, of whom we met 6.  Some of these members had special needs, and we were glad to speak with them about their challenges and the support they receive from LWF. Those with special needs are sometimes overlooked in emergency and disaster response. Awareness and planning around their needs is a recent trend among refugee agencies, and  LWF has been a strong special-needs advocate.

MCC has a unique opportunity to support educational efforts at these camps, to interact with and learn from LWF, and to stay connected to the East Africa refugee situation at one of the largest population refugee locations in the world. These people, some of the world's most vulnerable, by some accounts hold in their hands the future of Somalia, one of the most unstable countries in the world.  The ideas and education they receive now will be a part of that future.  MCC is privileged to support this partner LWF and its refugee educational efforts. MCC constituents have the privilege of staying in touch with the refugee situation in Kenya through an organization working hand-in-hand with the refugees themselves.

 Abae Sheikh Maro, an LWF education program manager in Dadaab, with preschool children.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Our newest addition to the family!

Rescuing baby elephants whose mothers have been poached or killed by other types of human interactions is the main mission of The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust's baby elephant orphanage. The orphanage is located on the outskirts of the Nairobi National Park -- a wildlife park in our city. Although the stories behind the babies' mothers are tragic, you would never know it to see these little guys romp and play and eat. The elephants are rescued by the staff at the orphanage, usually after a call from the National Wildlife rangers and staff. The babies are brought to the orphanage and cared for by Keepers who literally become their lost family; they feed them, sleep with them, and keep them warm and dry for the first several months of their lives. When they are young babies, the staff must feed them every 3 hours, even during the night. Eventually the babies are reintroduced slowly into the wild, and life with a herd. The Trust owns a portion of the Tsavo National Park, where Kenya's largest elephant herd lives. At around the age of 3, if the elephants are doing well, the Keepers take them to Tsavo, where they are gradually reintroduced and welcomed by other elephant herds. The other orphans who have successfully reintegrated to the wild are often the first to welcome the newcomers. The rangers told us that their former orphans often come back to the Trust's station to visit. It was surprisingly touching to see how kind and gentle the Keepers were with their charges, not overly affectionate, but we could tell they had developed relationships with them.

After watching them eat (out of bottles, so stinking cute!) and play for about an hour, visiting time was over; it was time for the elephants to go play and hang out in the bush. We then made our way over to the table and adopted our own baby elephant! Her name is Kamok, and she was born on 8 September of this year. She was found on the Ol Pejeta Conservancy as a newborn and was very sick; the Trust even had to give her blood transfusions to ensure her survival. Our donation as a foster family will help provide her with the needed food and other costs of rehabilitating her for the wild. Another benefit is that we can go put her to bed in the evenings (if you come see us, we'll take you with us!). 

If you want to learn more about the Trust, or adopt an elephant of your own (we'll go put him or her to bed for you, don't worry), go to www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org.